This morning, Hassan Mesfar is late for work. In the blue light before dawn, he emerges at the wheel of his car through a cloud of dust and bounces off the pot-holed road leading into Essaouira"s Place des Grands Taxis. After nonchalantly avoiding a collision with an orange vendor"s cart and a skinny stray dog, he speeds through the square"s gate before finding a space to park at the back of the high-walled yard.